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Memelas in Oaxaca

Memelas

Authentic Oaxacan memelas with pinched edges, topped with black beans, cheese, and salsa, served on a traditional clay plate in a vibrant market setting.
Safe only when cooked to order and served hot
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Discovering Authentic Memelas

Stepping into Oaxaca's vibrant markets, the aroma of masa cooking on a comal instantly signals you're in memela territory. These humble corn tortillas, pinched at the edges and topped with local delights, are a quintessential Oaxacan breakfast experience not to be missed.

New to Memelas? Learn all about its history in our complete guide.

What the Locals Know

Visit Early Morning Markets

For the freshest and widest selection, head to Mercado de la Merced or Mercado de Abastos between 7 AM and 9 AM. This is when memelas are hot off the comal and vendors are most active.

Look for the "Pellizcadas"

Authentic Oaxacan memelas are "pellizcadas" (pinched) at the edges, creating a rim to hold toppings. This artisanal detail indicates a traditional, handmade preparation.

Pair with Chocolate de Agua

Many Oaxacans enjoy their memelas with a cup of "chocolate de agua" (water-based hot chocolate). This traditional pairing offers a delightful contrast of savory and sweet.

A Guide to Finding Memelas

Mercado 20 de Noviembre

A bustling and iconic food market, its dedicated food hall section is home to numerous stalls specializing in Oaxacan antojitos, including excellent memelas, making it a convenient and popular spot for locals and visitors alike.

Nearby landmarks:

Food hall area, Central market location

Best times:

Morning, Afternoon

Mercado Benito Juárez

This historic and vibrant market, just blocks from the Zócalo, offers a traditional experience. Its interior food stalls, especially upstairs, are renowned for serving authentic, freshly made memelas, a local favorite.

Nearby landmarks:

Food section upstairs, Interior food stalls

Best times:

Morning, Early Afternoon

Central de Abastos

As Oaxaca's largest and most sprawling market, Central de Abastos is a vibrant hub where you can find an abundance of authentic and inexpensive memela vendors, particularly within its bustling food sections and indigenous vendors' area.

Nearby landmarks:

Food sections, Indigenous vendors' area

Best times:

Early Morning, Mid-Morning

Tlayudas El Negro

Despite the name focusing on tlayudas, this popular night spot also serves excellent memelas.

Nearby landmarks:

Libres Market area

Best times:

Evening, Night

Vendor Tips

  • Look for women cooking directly on traditional clay comales for the most authentic experience.
  • Vendors with a metate (grinding stone) or molino (grinder) visible are likely making fresher masa.
  • Some of the best vendors sell out by mid-morning (10-11 AM) - arrive early!
  • Street memelas vendors outside the Abastos market (especially on Saturday) are particularly good.

An Authenticity Guide

What to Look For

  • Cooked fresh on a very hot 'comal'

    Essential in Oaxaca markets (Benito Juárez, La Merced, etc.). Masa should sizzle on contact. Ensures proper cooking.

  • Use of 'asiento' (unrendered pork fat)

    A signature Oaxacan ingredient. Look for the reddish paste being spread on the hot memela. Ensure it looks fresh.

  • Fresh 'quesillo' or 'queso fresco'

    Oaxacan cheese should look moist and fresh, not dried out or discolored.

  • Hand-pressed masa with pinched edges

    Hallmark of traditional Oaxacan memelas, indicating artisanal preparation.

What to avoid

  • Pre-cooked memelas sitting off the heat

    Risk of unsafe temperatures and stale texture. Avoid stalls where memelas aren't cooked to order.

  • 'Asiento' that looks old or stored improperly

    Pork fat needs careful handling. Avoid if it looks discolored or the container is dirty.

  • Dried out or yellowish cheese

    This indicates a lack of freshness and proper storage, which can affect both taste and quality. Always look for moist, vibrant cheese.

  • Memelas cooked on a lukewarm 'comal'

    Insufficient heat won't cook the thick masa properly or ensure safety.

The Traveler's Essentials

Dietary Information

Important Note for Travelers: Your safety is our priority. Below are the common allergens associated with the traditional preparation of this dish. However, recipes and ingredients can vary significantly between establishments. Always confirm all ingredients directly with the food vendor before ordering, especially if you have a severe allergy.

Potential Allergens

milk Milk
wheat Wheat
soy Soy

Dietary Suitability

vegetarian Vegetarian Optional
vegan Vegan Optional
gluten-free This dish is gluten-free

Price Guide

$10,00 - $35,00 MXN

Budget Tips

  • Local markets like Central de Abastos offer memelas for 10-15 MXN each.
  • Small street stalls in residential neighborhoods are usually cheaper than those in Zócalo or tourist areas.
  • At traditional morning vendors, two memelas (15-30 MXN total) make a satisfying, affordable breakfast.
  • Adding specialty toppings or ordering in tourist restaurants can push prices to 25-35 MXN each.

Serving & Seasonality

In Oaxaca, traditionally served on small plates, banana leaves, or simple paper. Accompanied by red and green salsas, often with a side of pickled vegetables (escabeche). Sometimes served with a small bowl of consome (broth) on the side.

Best Times to Enjoy

  • Early Morning: Many vendors start around 6 AM, serving workers before their day begins.
  • Mid-Morning: Peak time for memelas (8 AM - 11 AM), when most locals enjoy them for breakfast.
  • Afternoon: Some market stalls continue serving into afternoon hours.

Seasonal Availability

Available year-round, though some vendors close during major holidays or festivals.

How to Order with Confidence

Ordering memelas in Oaxaca is straightforward. Specify the number you want ("Una memela, por favor"). They typically come with asiento (pork lard), black bean paste, and cheese. If you prefer without lard, say "sin asiento." Don't hesitate to ask for extra salsa ("más salsa, por favor") as locals often add more after each bite. Enjoy them hot off the comal.

How Locals Eat It: Variations

Blue Corn Memelas

Made with blue corn masa, which has a slightly earthier flavor and distinct appearance. Common in Oaxaca's central valleys.

Market Style Memelas

The most traditional preparation, minimalist with just the basics - asiento, beans, cheese, salsa - but made with exceptional care and fresh ingredients.

Valley Memelas

Variations found in Oaxaca's outlying valleys sometimes use different bean varieties or local ingredients like epazote or unique local cheese.

Breakfast Set Memelas

Served as part of a breakfast set with eggs, beans, and coffee/chocolate - common at sit-down places in Oaxaca City.

Local Significance

Local Significance

In Oaxaca, memelas are more than food - they're a cultural institution representing indigenous culinary heritage, with techniques passed down through generations of women. They showcase the region's reverence for corn and connection to pre-Hispanic foodways.

Eating Customs

  • In Oaxaca, often eaten with chocolate de agua (water-based Oaxacan hot chocolate) or atole.
  • Local custom is to add a little extra salsa after each bite.
  • Often eaten in pairs as a complete meal, rather than as a side dish.

Practical Guides for Enjoying Memelas

Finding Breakfast Memelas in Oaxaca Markets

Discover how to navigate Oaxaca's bustling morning markets to find the most authentic and delicious memelas, a quintessential local breakfast staple.

  • Visit markets like Mercado Benito Juárez, Mercado de la Merced, or Sánchez Pascuas in Oaxaca City early in the morning (7 AM - 10 AM).
  • Look for vendors with large, hot clay or metal 'comales' (griddles), often tended by women patting out masa by hand.
  • Identify stalls specializing in memelas, often with signs saying 'Memelas Oaxaqueñas' or just 'Memelas'.
  • Observe the toppings offered: typically black bean paste ('frijol'), 'asiento' (lard paste), cheese ('queso fresco' or 'quesillo'), and various salsas.
  • Choose a busy stall where memelas are being cooked constantly.

Ordering Your Memela in Oaxaca

Learn the essential phrases and options to confidently order your perfect memela, ensuring an authentic and delicious Oaxacan breakfast experience.

  • Approach the vendor and indicate how many memelas you want ('Una/Dos memelas, por favor').
  • They are typically made with 'asiento' and black bean paste unless you request otherwise ('sin asiento', 'sin frijol').
  • Cheese is standard ('queso fresco' or shredded 'quesillo').
  • Choose your salsa. Options often include 'salsa roja' (red) and 'salsa verde' (green), varying in spiciness. Ask '¿Cuál pica menos/más?' (Which is less/more spicy?).
  • Pay attention as they cook it fresh on the hot 'comal' and serve immediately.

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