Bacalao (Salted Cod)
Bacalao
Description
In Madrid, bacalao holds a special place, particularly the simple yet delicious 'Bacalao Frito' (fried cod). While lacking a coastline, the city's history as the capital made it a hub for preserved foods like salted cod. You'll find excellent bacalao in traditional tapas bars, historic restaurants, and even modern eateries offering innovative takes alongside the classics.
Dietary Information
Fish
Garlic
Wheat
This dish is not vegetarian
This dish is not vegan
This dish contains gluten
Serving information
Serving style
Most famously served as 'tapas' or 'raciones' of 'Bacalao Frito'/'Soldaditos de Pavía', often in a paper wrapper or on a small plate. Also available in restaurants as main dishes prepared in various styles (e.g., 'con tomate', 'a la madrileña').
Quick facts
Tapas Bars: Generally 12 PM - 4 PM and 7 PM - 12 AM (or later on weekends). Restaurants: Lunch 1 PM - 4 PM, Dinner 8:30 PM - 11:30 PM.
Safety Tips
What to Look For
-
Properly cooked fish: Opaque white flesh that flakes easily with a fork.
Ensures the cod is cooked through, reducing risks associated with undercooked fish.
-
Reputable establishment known for Bacalao
Restaurants or bars specializing in or famed for their cod dishes are more likely to handle and prepare it correctly (especially desalting).
-
Appears freshly prepared (especially fried items)
Fried bacalao should ideally be cooked to order or very recently fried to be crispy and hot, minimizing time in the temperature danger zone.
-
Balanced flavor (not overly salty)
Excessive saltiness indicates improper or insufficient desalting, which affects taste and potentially health.
-
Properly emulsified sauce (e.g., Pil Pil)
A well-made, stable emulsion suggests care in preparation, though not directly a safety issue, it indicates quality.
What to avoid
-
Overpowering salty taste
Suggests the cod was not desalted correctly. While not acutely dangerous for most, it's a quality failure and unpleasant.
-
Dry, tough, or stringy texture
Can indicate poor quality cod, improper storage/handling, or overcooking.
-
Any 'off' or excessively fishy smell
Salted cod should smell clean and mildly of the sea; strong unpleasant odors indicate potential spoilage.
-
Dishes sitting at lukewarm temperatures
Allows for bacterial growth. Ensure the dish is served properly hot (if cooked) or cold (if a cold preparation like Esqueixada).
-
Establishments with poor general hygiene
General cleanliness reflects overall food handling practices.
Price information
Price range
Budget tips
- Grab a 'tapa' of Bacalao Frito for around 3.50-5 EUR at classic bars like Casa Revuelta.
- 'Raciones' of fried cod or other preparations in tapas bars cost about 12-18 EUR.
- Main courses in sit-down restaurants will be 18-28 EUR.
- Look for 'menú del día' options which might include a bacalao dish for good value.
Value indicators
- Crispy, non-greasy batter on 'frito'.
- Flaky, perfectly desalted cod inside.
- Generous tapa/ración size.
- Served piping hot (for fried/cooked dishes).
- Authentic preparation in traditional venues.
Where to Find This Dish
La Latina / Austrias
Heart of traditional tapas culture, home to famous bacalao spots like Casa Revuelta.
Plaza Mayor, Mercado de la Cebada, Calle Cava Baja
Weekend Lunchtime, Evenings (esp. Thu-Sun)
Huertas (Barrio de las Letras)
Literary quarter with many classic taverns ('tabernas') serving traditional tapas, including bacalao.
Plaza Santa Ana, Calle Huertas
Evenings, Lunch
Salamanca
More upscale neighborhood with refined restaurants that may offer gourmet bacalao preparations alongside traditional market stalls (Mercado de la Paz).
Mercado de la Paz, Calle Serrano
Lunch, Dinner
Chamberí
Traditional neighborhood feel with excellent local bars and restaurants, some specializing in seafood/bacalao.
Calle Ponzano, Mercado de Chamberí
Lunch, Evenings
Vendor Tips
- For the quintessential Madrid experience, visit Casa Revuelta (near Plaza Mayor) for their 'Bacalao Frito'. Expect queues.
- Look for bars where the bacalao is fried fresh in batches, not sitting for hours.
- Some traditional 'ultramarinos' (grocery stores) or market stalls ('bacaladerías') sell high-quality raw salted cod if you want to cook it yourself.
- Ask for 'tajada de bacalao' for a piece of fried cod.
How to Order
Regional Variations
-
Soldaditos de Pavía
(Soldaditos de Pavía)
A classic Madrid tapa: strips of battered, deep-fried cod, traditionally garnished with a roasted red pepper strip. The name allegedly refers to Spanish soldiers' uniforms.
-
Bacalao Rebozado
(Bacalao Rebozado)
General term for battered and fried cod, essentially the same as 'bacalao frito' or 'Soldaditos', very common in Madrid tapas bars.
-
Bacalao a la Madrileña
(Bacalao a la Madrileña)
While less common now, a traditional Madrid style involving cod cooked with tomato, onion, garlic, and sometimes paprika and hard-boiled egg.
-
Potaje de Garbanzos con Bacalao
(Potaje de Garbanzos con Bacalao)
Chickpea and cod stew, a variation of Potaje de Vigilia, very common in Madrid homes and traditional restaurants during Lent.
Cultural context
History
The tradition of consuming salted cod in Spain dates back centuries, linked to Basque whaling and fishing expeditions in the North Atlantic. Salting was an effective preservation method allowing cod to be transported far inland and consumed year-round. It became deeply integrated into the cuisine, especially vital during Catholic Lent ('Cuaresma' or 'Semana Santa') when meat was restricted, leading to famous dishes like 'Potaje de Vigilia'.
Local significance
Bacalao Frito is an iconic Madrid tapa, a symbol of the city's traditional bar culture. Its presence highlights Madrid's historical role as a convergence point for goods from all over Spain.
Eating customs
- Typically eaten standing at the bar with a small beer ('caña') or wine ('chato').
- Consumed hot, right after frying for the best texture.
- Often ordered by the piece ('tajada') or portion ('ración').